Dry skin is common in both women and men, and aging brings fine lines, wrinkles and sagging. When buying the right moisturizer, the choices can make your head spin. November is National Healthy Skin Month, so get some skin in the game and learn what’s in these products and what they should do.
Simply put, moisturizers are applied directly to the skin to hydrate and repair it. Moisturizers return water to the skin and repair its ability to prevent water loss. They can play a big role in managing and preventing conditions like dry skin, eczema, which causes itchiness, rashes, dry patches and infection, and lichen simplex, a chronic itchy skin disorder.
The skin’s main job is to block germs from entering the body and maintain water balance. It consists of three layers: the dermis, hypodermis and epidermis. The outermost layer, the epidermis, prevents germ infection and controls the amount of water released from the body. The epidermis is crucial to maintaining water balance, explained authors and researchers Anne Harwood, Ali Nassereddin, and Karthik Krishnamurthy in their study Moisturizers, published in the National Library of Medicine.
If you have specific skincare issues, consult a provider, like a dermatologist, and schedule routine visits. If you don’t have a skincare provider, you can find one by calling the number on the back of your insurance card.
Different types of moisturizers
Moisturizers include a combination of humectants, occlusive agents and emollients (or emulsifiers). All three types of moisturizers work together to improve hydration and prevent loss of water, but each has its role:
Humectants attract and hold water and help repair the skin’s barrier. Examples include glycerin, a moisturizing agent that draws water into the skin from the body’s deeper layers and from the air. Other humectants used in many skin care products and moisturizers are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs). They include hyaluronic, glycolic (different from glycerin), lactic, and salicylic acids. A lot of AHAs are used as chemical exfoliants to remove dead skin cells, while hyaluronic acid is very good at retaining water, helping skin stretch and reducing lines and wrinkles.
Humectants can hydrate the skin if the humidity is more than 70%, but they also can pull water from deeper layers of the skin. Some humectants can worsen dry skin issues if used without an occlusive moisturizer. Glycerin, found in many skincare products, attracts and holds water and is also effective in repairing the skin’s barrier.
Occlusive moisturizers, like petrolatum, mineral oil and paraffin, create a barrier to prevent water from evaporating through the skin. They allow the deeper layers of the skin to refill the amount of water in the outermost layer. Petrolatum is the most effective occlusive moisturizer, reducing water loss by nearly 99%.
Emollients or emulsifiers, such as shea butter and ceramides (a type of fatty acids), fill in gaps between skin cells, helping to smooth and soften skin. These molecules allow two unblendable substances, usually fatty acids, to work together.
Creams, lotions or gels?
“There’s definitely not a one-size-fits-all for all skin types,” said Rebecca Kazin, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Bethesda in an article on how to pick the right moisturizer for your skin on the American Academy of Dermatology Association’s website.
Gels, often water-based and lighter on the skin than lotion, are the least hydrating products. Next comes lotions, followed by creams, which are thicker, more hydrating and have higher oil content. Ointments are the thickest and most hydrating moisturizers and are most effective in repairing dry skin.
Traditionally, creams were made up mostly of occlusive components, while lotions mainly included humectants. However, modern moisturizers usually contain both, improving their effectiveness. Different combinations and amounts of ingredients can help reach the desired results with issues ranging from dry skin, flaking skin or damage to the skin’s barrier.
Skincare doesn’t have to be expensive. Affordable options with clean ingredients approved by dermatologists are available. Just be sure to ask your dermatologist which moisturizers are best for your skin condition.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology Association, Moisturizers research paper by Anne Harwood, et al., National Library of Medicine
Common moisturizer terms
Retinol: An anti-aging ingredient derived from Vitamin A. Can be found in over-the-counter products or in prescribed products.
Hyaluronic Acid: A molecule that helps your skin retain moisture and stay hydrated.
Vitamin C: An antioxidant that, with ongoing use, can brighten skin and help with uneven tone.
Salicylic Acid: A chemical exfoliant and a type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Salicylic acid has anti-acne properties and helps break down dead skin cells that can clog your pores.
Niacinamide : Also known as a form of Vitamin B3, it has many benefits, from treating acne to dark spots on the skin known as hyperpigmentation. It can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores, improve skin tone and help strengthen the skin barrier.